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ChatGPT was completely wrong about the cause of glaze crazing in 2023!

ChatGPT was parroting common wrong suggestions about the cause and solution of the serious issue of crazing. Yet it trained on thousands of internet pages about the subject! Crazed functional ware is defective, and customers will return it. So fixing the problem is serious business, we need correct answers. Consider its suggestions: #1 is wrong. There is no such thing as an "incompatible mix" of ceramic materials. Crazing is an incompatibility in thermal expansions of glaze and body, almost always a result of excessive levels of high-expansion K₂O and Na₂O in the chemistry of the glaze. The solution is reducing them in favor of other fluxes (the amount per the degree of COE mismatch). #2 is wrong, firing changes don't fix the incompatibility of thermal expansions. #3 is wrong, refiring makes the crazing go away but not the stress of the mismatch, it will for sure return. #4 is completely wrong. Firing higher takes more quartz grains into solution in the melt and should reduce the COE (and mature the body more which often improves fit). And melt fluidity has nothing to do with crazing. Furthermore, if a glaze does not run off the ware, it is not overfired. Of course, this is the worst it will ever be, expect better in future.

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Two ChatBots square off on crazing in 2025

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In 2025 ChatGPT’s four glaze adjustment suggestions are either wrong or will accidentally fix crazing because they address other issues that just happen to also be present. Adding enough silica or alumina brings unacceptable side effects on multiple fronts. Alkali fluxes need to be substituted, not reduced. Simply substituting frits changes the overall chemistry making it a different glaze - why not just use a recommended recipe for the body as suggested by Gemini? Adding silica to a body increases, not decreases, the thermal expansion (and it reduces vitrification). Increased vitrification doesn’t make the body resist crazing (bodies don’t craze) - unless increased vitrification happens to also increase the thermal expansion (but not introduce warping). Slower cooling or a lower refire only delays crazing. Comparing COE’s of body and glaze is impossible for anyone not having a dilatometer to test both (you cannot compare measured and calculated COEs and calculation of COE for bodies is impossible). Embracing the crazing is a no-go for functional ware.

Gemini correctly explains why it happens. But, it suffers similar misconceptions about vitrification, cooling, silica additions to the body, vitrification and ignores the side effects of increasing silica or alumina in a glaze recipe. It is right that alkalis need reduction, but fails to note what to substitute. It recommends zinc as a stabilizer (whatever that means), but zinc is a strong flux that should be substituted for KNaO. Thinner glaze coating just delays crazing. Its suggestions about experimenting, keeping records, and researching to find recipes known to be compatible with the body are good. The only information available from glaze or body suppliers that might help is a chart that permits ordering products from lowest to highest COE (enabling you to at least transition in the right direction for better fit).

A down side of high feldspar glazes: Crazing!

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This reduction celadon is crazing. Why? High feldspar. Feldspar supplies the oxides K₂O and Na₂O, they contribute the brilliant gloss and great color but the price is very high thermal expansion. Scores of recipes being traded online are high-feldspar, some more than 50%! There are ways to tolerate the high expansion of KNaO, but the vast majority are crazing on all but high quartz bodies. Crazing is a plague for potters. Ware strength suffers dramatically, pieces leak, the glaze can harbor bacteria and customers return pieces. The simplest fix is to transplant the color and opacity mechanism into a better transparent, one that fits your ware (in this glaze, for example, the mechanism is simply an iron addition). Fixing the recipe may also be practical. A 2:1 mix of silica:kaolin has the same Si:Al ratio as most glossy glazes, this glaze could possibly tolerate 10% of that. That would reduce running, improve fit and increase durability. Failing that, the next step is to substitute some of the high-expansion KNaO, the flux, for the low-expansion MgO, that requires doing some glaze chemistry.

Cone 10 mug is crazing after a year. That's OK because it's high-fire, right?

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Wrong. This cone 10R grey stoneware, H550, is OK if the glaze fits. But this high feldspar glaze on the inside has begun to craze after a year. The greyer coloration around the craze lines indicates that water is soaking into the slightly porous body. And, this mug has lost the ring it had out of the kiln. Imagine your customers returning these pieces! Could they be refired to be as good as new? Perhaps. But they would return to this condition. The practical solution is to reformulate this glaze to reduce its thermal expansion.

Delayed crazing is a RED LIGHT. Pay attention!

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Crazing is a disaster for a production potter. Consider what one said: "I have just recently been contacted by a customer due to small lines in her bowl. I am now terrified residual crazing could be happening to lots of functional pieces I have sold! Nightmare! I have a terrible feeling in my stomach. Could anyone tell me if it is the glaze and if there is anything I can do to alter the recipe?" Don’t let this happen to you. Commercial brushing and dipping glazes are just as likely to craze as ones you mix.

Turning delayed crazing into immediate crazing

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This is a cone 04 clay (Plainsman Buffstone) with a transparent glaze (G1916Q which is 65% Frit 3195, 20% Frit 3110, 15% EPK). On coming out of the kiln, the glaze looked fine, crystal clear, no crazing. However, when heated to 300F and then immersed into ice water this happens. This is the IWCT test. At lower temperatures, where bodies are porous, water immediately penetrates the cracks and begins to waterlog the body below. Fixing the problem was easy: Substitute the low expansion Frit 3249 for high expansion Frit 3110.

What can you do using glaze chemistry? More than you think!

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There is a direct relationship between the way ceramic glazes fire and their chemistry. These green panels in my Insight-live account compare two glaze recipes: A glossy and matte. Grasping their simple chemistry mechanisms is a first step to getting control of your glazes. To fixing problems like crazing, blistering, pinholing, settling, gelling, clouding, leaching, crawling, marking, scratching, powdering. To substituting frits or incorporating available, better or cheaper materials while maintaining the same chemistry. To adjusting melting temperature, gloss, surface character, color. And identifying weaknesses in glazes to avoid problems. And to creating and optimizing base glazes to work with difficult colors or stains and for special effects dependent on opacification, crystallization or variegation. And even to creating glazes from scratch and using your own native materials in the highest possible percentage.

You cannot fix this crazing with a process or firing change

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This is severe crazing (at cone 10R). It is happening because of the chemistry of the glaze, not the firing. The first option to check when fixing crazing is: Can the glaze accept an addition of SiO₂? This glaze is an excellent candidate for that because the melt is highly fluid, it will surely be able to dissolve extra SiO₂. But it could also accept Al₂O₃ because it is highly glossy (a little extra Al₂O₃ will not matte it and would also reduce expansion and increase fired hardness and durability). What to do then? I would start with a 10% addition of a mix of two parts silica to one part kaolin (this mix has a 10:1 SiO₂:Al₂O₃ ratio, about the same as most glossy glazes).

Adding silica will fix crazing, right? Not here.

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G2926B (center and right) is a clear cone 6 glaze created by simply adding 10% silica to Perkins Studio clear (a glaze that had a slight tendency delay-craze on common porcelains we use). Amazingly that glaze tolerated the silica addition very well, continuing to fire to an ultra gloss crystal clear. That change eliminated the crazing issues on most of our bodies. The cup on the right is one of them, that body is vitreous, near-zero-porosity, and fits most glazes. Why? Because it has 24% silica in the recipe. The center porcelain is also dense and vitreous, but it only has 17% silica, that is why it is crazing this glaze. Then I added 5% more silica to the glaze, it continued to produce an ultra smooth glossy, and applied it to the 17% body on the left. Why did not fix the crazing? That silica addition to the glaze only reduces the calculated expansion from 6.0 to 5.9, clearly not enough to fix the problem. So, the obvious solution seems to be use the porcelain on the right. Are you wondering why adding silica to a body raises its thermal expansion, and adding it to a glaze lowers it? Mineralogy is the reason.

High feldspar glazes craze. Don't put up with it.

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This glaze, "Bamboo Cone 10%", contains 50% potash feldspar so or certainly qualified as a high feldspar glaze. K₂O and Na₂O are this over supplied. They have the highest thermal expansions of all oxides, by far. These are needed and valuable - but when grossly over supplied the result is crazing. This glaze used to work on this body, H550. The previous version of H550 was firing near the bloating point of the body, about 1% porosity, so the recipe had to be changed to provide more margin for error. The new recipe has a more practical 2.0-2.5% porosity, it has no danger of bloating or warping and still has excellent maturity and strength. This glaze was crazing before and pieces did not leak because the body was dense enough - so they were still water tight. But now it does not work. The solution is to do something that should have been done before: Use a silky matte base recipe that does not craze. We recommend our G2571A base (below right) - the Zircopax, rutile and iron oxide in the original can be added to it instead.

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