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This wheel-thrown bowl is large, heavy and thick walled. There are pouring techniques to apply different colored dipping glazes inside and out but they are cumbersome and slow. It turns out that the hobbyist way of glazing is actually better - by brushing. I make these 500ml jars of brushing glaze and tune the percentage of gums to get the right painting consistency and drying time. Applying multiple coats by brush takes only a few minutes and no wax resist or any other tools are needed. And it is easy to meet two glazes in a straight line at the rim. On this piece, the inside glaze is G2936B and outside is G2926B. Both are almost always used as thixotropic dipping glazes, but nothing about such recipes disqualifies them from being mixed as brushing glazes.

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On the left I applied pure Ravenscrag slip, as a glaze, inside and out, using only a small brush. I did the same to the bowl on the right, using the G1947U transparent glaze. Both of H550 clay. We almost always use these as dipping glazes. But here I mix them as brushing glazes, adding 10g CMC gum powder to one liter of a water-reduced version of the slurries. Blender mixing makes it possible to mix in the powdered gum and tune water content for the best brushing experience. The gum slows down the drying speed dramatically so there is plenty of time to brush it into place (while the wheel is turning). The gum also greatly increases the cohesion, enabling pouring out of a pitcher in a long thin stream. In this firing I also glazed a leather hard 40-inch tall vase and a 35 lb bone-dry bowl using the same technique. The evenness of coverage was the best I have ever gotten (of any technique) on large sizes and shapes.
It might surprise you that handmade tile is often glazed using brushing. A glaze can be squirted onto a tile and spread with a large brush in seconds. This can be done on a passing conveyor or in batches on a table.

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Although I promote DIY dipping glazes, you can also make DIY brushing glazes. Let's make a low SG version of G2934BL. Weigh out a 340g batch of dipping glaze powder. Include 5g Veegum (to gel the slurry to enable more than normal water) and 5g CMC gum (to slow drying and impart brushing properties). Measure 440g of water initially (adjusting later if needed). Shake-mix all the powder in a plastic bag. Pour it into the water, which is blender mixing on low speed, and finish with 20 seconds on high speed. This just fills a 500ml jar. In subsequent batches, I adjust the Veegum for more or less gel, the CMC for slower or faster drying and the water amount for thicker or thinner painted layers. Later I also assess whether the CMC gum is being degraded by microbial attack - often evident if the slurry thins and loses its gel. Dipping glaze recipes can and do respond differently to the gums. Those having little clay content work well (e.g. reactive and crystalline glazes). If bentonite is present it is often best to leave it out. Recipes having high percentages of ball clay or kaolin might work best with less Veegum. Keeping good notes (with pictures) is essential to reach the objective here: Good brushing properties. We always use code-numbering (in our group account at Insight-live.com) and write those on the jars and test pieces. This is so worthwhile doing that I make quality custom labels for each jar!

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The original Italian majolica ware was red earthenware with a thick layer of tin-opacified glaze vibrantly brush-decorated using single-strokes of watery metal oxides. The water-color of ceramics. But tin oxide is no longer affordable. And ceramic stains are better. And no one uses lead glazes. So all majolica-like ware made today is actually “faux (false) majolica”. These test samples take the “faux” to the next level: Stoneware with a zircon-opacified white glaze. But almost all are crawling. If this happens for you ask these questions:
Is the glaze re-wetable? Dipping glaze recipes often are not, especially if they fail sanity check (e.g. are over-clayed or under-clayed).
Base coat dipping glaze better survive the rewetting of a second layer?
Mixing them as a brushing glaze give maximum insurance.
What did they look like when the overcolor dried? Cracks are sure indicator or crawling.
Were you painting pure stain or metal oxide (mixing with water only)? Don’t do that. Water color paint uses gum Arabic, pottery colors need to be in a stain medium (which often has CMC gum).
| Glossary |
Brushing Glaze
Hobbyists and increasing numbers of potters use commercial paint-on glazes. It's convenient, there are lots of visual effects. There are also issues compared to dipping glazes. You can also make your own. |
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