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What people have said about Digitalfire- Your sight ROCKS.
- Tony's site is really full of exceptional technical information.
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- Very useful articles on practical solutions to the every day problems Ceramic Technicians face in their organizations.
- Your resources are truly amazing and as an ex electronic engineer (now a potter), I really am impressed with your analytical approaches. Your site is almost a complete college level course on pottery (less the throwing & handbuilding). Thank you for your wonderful contributions.
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- Go look at Tony Hansens page and look at Insite. Incredible amounts of information. He has a great explanation of .. Shivering ---and the opposite----- Crazing. Cause and solution.
- I found your site and spent a long time studying various parts of it. I intend to use it alot, and hence I probably purchase the software in due course.
- I have used this site on numerous occasions for glaze information and always get a personalized answer, quickly, and plenty of help. They go above and beyond the call of duty!! They are a excellent website for potters!!
What people have said about Insight-Live- Love the email I got today about the clear glaze because I have an account! Thank you for all you do. These emails are a great idea.
- And I don't know how to thank you enough for your help with your website. What a wonderful and complete tool you provide. It is my bible!
- Thank you for this web site. Really thank you. I live in fear that it will disappear one day, so don’t ever delete it please!
- I just wanted to say, thank you! I’m relatively new to pottery, taking a mostly self-taught approach and I’m at the stage where glazing is in my mind. I don’t want to be (and can’t see myself ever) buying glazes from commercial suppliers. I want to learn my craft with glaze as much as I do with my clay preparation and pottery making. I’ve seen “the dragon” and been uninspired by so much of what I find online and to be honest, in many glaze books. It seems more popular to try and present a mass of glaze possibilities than to offer a learning experience beyond being told a glaze needs a melter, a refractory and a glass-maker. Enough to offer a very basic understanding, but nothing upon which to build the understanding that will allow some degree of mastery (or at least influence) of your glaze making.
I am so pleased to have found digitalfire.com. You’ve shown me exactly how to approach and understand glazing, giving me the foundation for approach I sought. I was thinking of base glazes and what you’ve shown me about working on from those is fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. To have a reliable base glaze to modify and develop to meet different needs; to understand how to shift a melting point or adjust the surface gloss; to come to know how the mechanisms in a glaze and understanding them gives me the route to creating glazes that realize my intentions - wow!
I can’t thank you enough. Rather than having to form a dumb reliance on a book of recipe cards and a bunch of website bookmarks (which I wasn’t wanting to go for) you’ve given me the foundation for a lifelong development and understanding of the glazes I will make, that will become “my” glazes. You have really opened my mind to the whole subject and it doesn’t seem to be a problem that I’m no scientist or chemist. You’ve shared your knowledge in a way that is completely approachable and remarkably easy to understand for someone without any kind of science/chemistry background.
- I teach glaze technology at ... the information that you display on your this website is absolutely fundamental for my teaching.
- The chemistry from G3806E really helped me with fixing a copper that I could never get to stop blistering before, so I'm a big fan.
- My glazes activities are seasonal anyway. In the summer i make pots in winter I think about chemistry and sit at a PC. I looked at your pricing again and it is indeed reasonable.
- I have not been potting for nearly 20 years. Your website is an oracle. Thank you.
- Many thanks for your time and trouble, re the information cone 6. You are a wealth of generosity and help to the home Potter.
- I keep telling people that I just found the best ceramic website on the internet. Paid for an account on insight live.
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Blog
A light bulb moment in solving bubble clouding:
The same black engobe with two transparent glazes.
This is a buff stoneware body, Plainsman M340. A L3954F black engobe was applied inside and upper-outside at leather hard. The piece was fired at cone 6 using the PLC6DS schedule. The inside, totally clouded glaze, is G2926B. Outside is GA6-B Alberta Slip amber transparent. This inside glaze is crystal-clear on other bodies (and on this one without the black engobe). The black stain in the engobe appears to be the issue. How?
Underglazes (or engobes) become a semi-dense layer and impede LOI by slowing gas diffusion. If the glaze then melts early and lacks viscosity, remaining channels of escape are sealed (increasing bubbling dramatically). Double-melt interfaces can form between vitreous engobes and glaze when the former softens, the clear glaze begins melting. Gases get trapped at the boundary, being generated at the exact wrong time during the firing.
Look at the outside amber transparent glaze, GA6-B. Although also early melting and on the same engobe, it has very little micro-bubble clouding! Why? It contains a lot of Alberta Slip, a material that is not finely ground like others. Particles across the range from 60-200 mesh are present; these are likely acting as a fining agent that enables bubble merging. The larger bubbles break at the surface because of sufficient melt mobility and lower melt surface tension.
Context: Thick application clouds a.., Glaze bubbles behaving badly.., Zircopax as a fining.., 2 Copper carbonate in.., Fining Agent, Glaze Bubbles, Clouding in Ceramic Glazes..
Thursday 9th April 2026
Why this copper glaze does not micro-bubble or craze:
High cone 6 melt fluidity, low surface tension, MgO
Specific gravity using a scale and graduated cylinder:
It doesn't matter how high you fill it
Counterbalance a graduated cylinder on a 0.01g scale and pour in some slurry. Fill it to any level that does not exceed the weight the scale can handle. Divide the weight by the volume. In this case, it weighs 60.6g and the volume is 41. That calculates to about 1.47 specific gravity. The higher it is filled, the higher the quality of the graduated cylinder and the better you are at reading the level, the more accurate the measurement will be. In this case, I just need an approximate measure. After adding more water to this glaze, I will measure again, filling it to near the 100cc level. I have to use a plastic cylinder because our glass one is too heavy for this scale to handle (its max is 200g).
Context: Measure specific gravity using.., Are cheap plastic graduated.., Specific gravity
Wednesday 8th April 2026
Giant pestle crusher tool: "The Shusher"
A handy DIY tool for potters
This inch-thick iron plate welded to a five-foot-long heavy pipe produces an ideal “mortar and pestle” style tool to break down dry clay lumps on a cement floor. I sometimes add side rails to contain flying lumps, but when crushing softer materials, like the clay shown here, they are not needed. On a heavy iron plate (instead of the floor), I can crush rocks and bricks. By incorporating appropriate sieves, I can effectively create granular material down to 50 mesh or finer.
I discovered the utility of this during the time the movie “Home” was popular, so I dubbed it “The Shusher” after Captain Smec’s control staff (more precisely the rock on the end of it).
Context: Making my own home-made.., Portable DIY rock crusher.., Native Clay
Wednesday 8th April 2026
When kilns are not candled long enough
Candling of kilns is the final stage of drying. Driers cannot achieve the temperatures needed to remove all water, so almost all industries rely on early stages of firing to remove it fully. Failures like this are part of the learning curve of every company (because there is always pressure to fire as fast as possible).
Although much more common in heavy clay industries, porcelain insulators are one of the less likely products for this to happen with. This is because machine-forming methods make it possible to use aluminous porcelain bodies having very little clay. Thus, faster drying (with less shrinkage and fewer residual internal stresses) also makes it possible for early stages of firing to be quicker. But there are limits. These insulators are solid, thick and heavy. And they have extreme variations in thickness (thin skirts to solid spindle). So, for even these, early stages of firing must be conducted carefully. For such products, periodic firings of days is often needed.
Context: This is what happens.., Automated porcelain insulator trimming.., Dehydroxylation in kaolin ball.., Pore water removed in.., Candling
Friday 27th March 2026
Paint another layer on a fired glaze?
Yes. With CMC gum.
The cone 6 mug on the left has the G3933A glaze, applied as a dipping glaze. It turned out poorly - crawling from corners and looking thin and washed out. I made a brushing glaze version of this (which adds 1.5% CMC gum), I keep it around for this very purpose. It has a high specific gravity (unlike commercial ones that have high water contents - they will run and go on too thin if you try this). Because of the gum, it dries hard, there is no shrinkage or cracking. On a second firing, using the C6DHSC schedule again, (mug on the right) the surface is transformed - thicker, more vibrant color.
It is possible to make a small brushing batch by simply dewatering some of the dipping glaze on a plaster bat (just for a minute or two, long enough to pull out the water). Then remix it with enough gum solution to get a paintable consistency. It doesn’t have to be precise, just get it to a point where it paints on and sticks in the thickness you need and does not crack on drying.
Context: CMC Gum, Six layers 85 Alberta.., Control gel using Veegum.., The degree-of-matteness of this..
Thursday 26th March 2026
2% Copper carbonate in two cone 6 transparents:
One does not bubble and orange-peel. Why?
The top base glaze, G2926B, has enough melt fluidity to produce a brilliant functional gloss when used as a transparent. However, for this 2% copper carbonate addition, it has too little melt fluidity and/or too much surface tension to merge, pass and heal the entrained micro-bubbles (generated by the decomposition of the carbonate).
The lower glaze, G3806B, diversifies the fluxes (half the B2O3 in exchange for more Na2O and introduction of SrO and ZnO) and increases their total compared to Al2O3 and SiO2. The result is a more fluid cone 6 melt having lower surface tension. The mixed-oxide effect is also a factor here; the diversity itself improves the melt.
The above factors are enough to solve the problem here. But more can be done. More zinc (in exchange for KNaO) could produce later melting, especially in combination with sourcing some or all of the latter from a feldspar instead of the low-melting frit. The benefit would enable more gas escape until melt-sealing (and reduce the COE).
Context: Copper Carbonate, Copper Carbonate Basic, Zinc Oxide, ZnO, G3806C, Why this copper glaze.., A light bulb moment.., Underglazes require a fluid.., Flux
Thursday 26th March 2026
Four boron frits with vastly different melting:
Knowing about this could debubble your clear glaze.
Industry, late-melting glazes are a must for fast fire because there is no time for glazes to debubble. The later they melt (while still melting well at the target temperature), the more LOI gases of decomposition (generated by the body, glaze materials, glaze & body additives) can be expelled first. What about potters? These melt flow tests are of specific interest to anyone making clear glazes using frit 3134. They compare four common Ferro products fired to 1750F: Frit 3249 (29% B2O3), frit 3124 (14% B2O3), frit 3195 (23% B2O3) and frit 3134 (23% B2O3). Surprisingly, the one having the most B2O3 starts melting the latest (more than 200F after 3134), this is because of the amount of MgO in the formula. So, if your transparent glaze contains any MgO (G2926S, for example, contains 0.15 molar), the more that can be supplied using this (instead of 3134), the later the glaze will melt. Likewise, frit 3124 is a better choice than 3134 in cases where the percentage of clay can be reduced (since it supplies much more Al2O3). Glazes containing high percentages of feldspar are least likely to benefit because the main alternative source of KNaO is frit 3110, and it melts even sooner than 3134 (an exception is cases where the glaze also has high MgO and B2O3).
Context: Why so many bubbles.., Fast Fire Glazes, Glaze Bubbles
Monday 23rd March 2026
Why so many bubbles in a fritted cone 6 glaze?
This is a cone 6 transparent fritted glaze (converted from a Gerstley Borate one). Its B2O3 content is high, sourced by Ferro Frit 3134. Bubbles like this plague many potters, many just keep trying new glazes until one works, or give up on never finding one.
The first obvious problem is the frit, it starts melting at 1350°F, while plenty of gases are still being generated. Such a bubble-trapper is a non-starter in an industrial continuous fast-fire kiln. They need late melters. But potters have flexible firing, so what could be done? The firing could be slowed down, leading up to 1350. It could be held at top temp, then either slow cooled or a drop-and-hold.
And the recipe? Notice the big bubbles; they started as little ones that merged. Given enough time, big ones break at the surface, but only under the right conditions: Low enough melt viscosity and surface tension. That's not happening. Strangely, old recipes sourcing high boron from Gerstley Borate had surprisingly few problems with bubbles! Why? GB was its own fining agent. And its boron entered the melt much later than this frit. Plus, the melt developed unevenly, creating localized channels and variable viscosity zones for easier bubble escape. The larger bubbles could better move laterally by combinations of surface tension, layer thickness and temperature gradients, and downward movement that created shear. A frit is missing all of that.
Let's assume this glaze melt has high surface tension. It pulls liquid inward around each bubble, stabilizing them round and making rupture more difficult. But, if surface tension drops, even slightly, bubbles deform more easily and adjacent ones merge. What could help? Industrial technicians have found that surprisingly small changes can really help with bubble release.
-A small SiO2 or Al2O3 addition can delay surface sealing or change viscosity timing.
-Sourcing the CaO from wollastonite can help bubble coalescence and reduce melt surface tension.
-Zinc oxide often changes surface behavior more than expected. As little as 2% can alter the viscosity curve, surface tension and melt interface properties, weakening bubble walls and improving near-surface rupture.
-Although MgO stiffens the melt somewhat, it also changes bubble wall elasticity; even small additions can help bubbles merge better.
As usual with solutions found here, methodical testing is needed to find the best answer.
Context: Gerstley Borate vs Frit.., Four boron frits with.., Glaze Bubbles
Sunday 22nd March 2026
A Clear Glaze is Bubbled Over DIY Underglazes:
The Real Solution Is in the Underglaze Recipe
Potters often encounter the problem shown here. These pieces are fired at cone 6. They are decorated with underglazes made from a mix of porcelain powders and stains. The transparent glaze works over certain colors but on others, it is full of microbubbles and pinholes. The potter has not had success finding a transparent overglaze that works consistently. Stain manufacturers do not mix stains with porcelain to making underglazes.
So, although closer control of the transparent glaze thickness or a more fluid melt glaze recipe might help, the real solution may lie with the underglaze recipes used here. An ideal bisque-stage underglaze is sinter-bonded but not sealed (therefore not accepting glaze water). An ideal fired underglaze also has controlled maturity: enough glass development to bond well to the body and promote glaze acceptance, but not so much that edge-bleeding and opacity loss occur. This state of 'controlled maturity' is also more likely to match body thermal expansion. The cost savings and the potential to fine-tune each color to your exact needs can be powerful motivations to use DIY underglazes.
Context: A 2oz jar of.., Here is another reason.., Underglaze, Stain Medium
Saturday 21st March 2026
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