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This is not as good as using a cup-head, but it has advantages for potters and hobbyists. These include easier mold making, only the top side needs to follow a precise contour, the bottom is just flat. And a wide range of sizes can be accommodated. It is also more convenient because the wheel head of the potters wheel does not need to be removed. And, of course, it is less expensive.
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This jigger mold-making method features a hybrid plaster form of the outside profile attached to a 3D-printed clamping baseplate. Clamp-on rails enable easy setup and extraction for mold production. Here are the steps:
-Download the drawing, edit the bowl profile and size (and the template) and then 3D-print the parts (typically using PLA filament). Print two rails.
-3D-print threaded anchors and attach them to the base plate.
-Center and clamp the spacer ring onto the flat side of the base plate.
-Set the model mold on a level surface, pour plaster into it (right to the rim), place the base plate (anchors down) onto it (being sure it seats down into the spacer ring to assure centering). The plaster should overflow up the air holes in the plate. Weigh it down and leave to set.
-Remove the mold (using heat gun if needed), finish the surface of the plaster (with a metal rib or 3D-print one with curves to match the contour) and soap it in preparation for pouring a working mold.
-Clamp the rails down to the base plate (using paper clamps), place the mold on a perfectly level surface and fill with plaster.
-Fit the template to your jigger arm (more than one cycle of editing the upper section and adjusting hole placement will likely be needed, so don't print it solid right away).
You now have a working jigger mold for use on a Giffin grip. Repeat the last step as many times as needed.
Glossary |
Jiggering
Jiggering is a process of forming pottery that employs a spinning plaster mold and a tapered template to press soft clay or porcelain against it. |
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