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Souvenir mugs that demonstrate incredible workmanship, glaze recipes, use of decals
These porcelain mugs are sold at many tourist shops on the Alaskan cruize circuit. Made in China of course. But their quality is astounding. And they teach multiple lessons to potters - great skill in the use of decals (even inside), meeting different glazes at the rims, evenness of application, layering, the use of wax resist, etc. They likely have a glossy and matte base glaze and add stains (to get the black, blue, red, white, green). Notice they have an iron red (lower right) that is stable enough not to run and host an even more fluid melt second layer. They also have a stoney yet functional matte white (bottom left). You can make dipping glaze versions of all of these:
Black glossy: G3914A and G2926BL
Black matte: G2934BL
Iron Red: G3948A
White stoney matte: G2934Y2
Glossy colors: Add stains to G2926B
Matte colors: Add stains to G2934
Related Pictures
G2926B cone 6 transparent liner glaze: Proven, reliable, durable
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While colorful and layered glazes on the outsides of pieces get lots of praise and glory transparent or white glazes providing the functional surface on the insides of pieces often get little attention from potters. Really, what good is an attractive piece if the food surface is crazing, blistering, leaching or cutlery marking? Or if it converts the piece into a time bomb? This cone 6 liner glaze, G2926B, is an example of how I found a glaze, recognized its potential and then adjusted the recipe to resist crazing on our clay bodies, fire durable and leach resistant act as a base to host colorants, opacifiers and variegators. I get the best fired results using the C6DHSC firing schedule and very good performance as a dipping glaze when the slurry is thixotropic. One of the reasons this recipe is so widely used is that it is well-documented having a code number that Google indexes. Drinking from a mug having a quality and fitted functional surface and a nice crisp line dividing the outside and inside glazes instills pride in me as the maker. What is the outside glaze? It is the G2934Y matte base recipe plus 8% Mason 6027 stain. The clay is MNP which I make myself.
Beautifully finished mug from Tim Hortons
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This was a limited edition heavy (450g or 1 lb) white stoneware mug for sale in Tim Hortons restaurants recently. It exhibits fine workmanship and carries lessons for potters. Notice they employ a transparent food safe liner glaze. The outside decoration appears to have been done at the leather hard stage using a colored engobe, wax resist and ceramic transfers. The entire piece was likely dipped in a transparent glaze (in the bisque state). The handle has a simple and functional shape that could be emulated using our handle mold making techniques. The simple flared body shape lends itself well to jiggering.
G2934 cone 6 DIY MgO matte glaze: Reliable, durable, adjustable, stainable
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These pieces were made from Plainsman Polar Ice and fired to cone 6 using variations on the PLC6DS and C6DHSC schedules. The dipping glaze is G2934Y, a recipe variant of G2934 having a finer micro-surface texture (it has the same chemistry but the MgO is sourced from a frit and talc instead of dolomite). These mugs display how well the recipe works with stains and the varying degrees of matteness we can achieve by varying the cooling rate and the percentage of glossy G2926B base blended in. As an MgO matte, this glaze can have a surface pleasant to the touch. It fires durable, can be quite matte without cutlery marking and it has very good slurry and application properties (as a dipping glaze). It has a very low thermal expansion (won’t craze). It works really well with stains (except purples). It melts even better than the glossy!
An ordinary white mug: More difficult to make than you think!
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This is M340S with G2934 matte white outside and G2926B glossy white inside (both have 10% zircopax). Consider what can go wrong. Zircon glazes love to crawl. I either add CMC gum to make it a base coat (or use a combination of tin oxide and zircopax (like G3926C). The clay has granular manganese added to produce the speck, if accidentally over-fired, even half a cone, it will bloat. And the clay body: The outer glaze is ugly on dark-burning clays. And it is drab on porcelains. It does not even look good on this same body if the speckle is not there. Another difficulty: Controlling the degree of matteness. I blend in about 20% of the glossy, otherwise it would fire too matte. And the firing schedule: PLC6DS - its drop-and-hold step is critical, without it the surface would be full of pinholes. Another problem: If the kiln is heavily loaded and cools slower than the programmed ramp-down, the surface will be too matte. Finally, glaze thickness: If it is too thin it will look washed out and ugly. Too thick it will bubble and look pasty.
Control matteness by glaze recipe or firing schedule
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The clay is Plainsman M370. Fired at cone 6 using the PLC6DS drop-and-hold firing schedule. The inside glossy glaze is G2926BL. The outside glaze base is G2934BL matte. Both recipes contain 6% Mason 6600 black stain. G2934 is tricky to keep consistent because the matte surface is a product of both the chemistry and the firing schedule. Thus we faced lots of testing when it became necessary to substitute Ferro Frit 3124 for the supposed equivalent, Fusion Frit F-19. Early results showed a little better melting, so the 10-15% glossy we normally add to move the stoney matte toward satin is not needed. However, we still made an 85:15 batch for our more frequent slow-cool C6DHSC firings (otherwise this G2934 mug would have fired too matte). So with the two recipes and two schedules I can produce four surfaces, from gloss satin to stony matte.
Cone 6 iron red with a catcher glaze
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This is G3948A (similar to the popular Ancient Copper product). To get this stunning result it needs to be applied thickly. Therefore it runs a lot. But the catcher glaze on the bottom cm of these mugs has stopped the flow. The catcher is a glossy black glaze and is hardly noticeable. I use G3914A as the catcher but Amaco Obsidian would also likely work. The inside glaze, G2926B, is one I have tested and developed to fit our clay bodies really well.
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