Standard 3/8 inch mold natch

Available as a Product on the Downloads page

Once you try these you will never go back to making molds without them. Unfortunately, these are not easy to get in North America. Or even online. But you can 3D print them yourself (we use PLA filament). This design interlocks with standard 3/8" natches used in industry. There are more aspects to printing and using these than meets the eye, here are some aspects to know:

-The base can be widened for sticking on the build plate better. If you need to print large numbers it might be advisable to use a glued plate to make sure they stick well.
-The inner edge is chamfered to ensure better insertion of the nipple.
-Print without infill for better strength.
-These are hollow, no support is needed.
-The bottom can be widened to stick better to the build plate.
-The ribs can be moved.
-A 9.8 mm hole is needed in the mold.

Available as a Product on the Downloads page

Related Pictures

3D printed three-piece jigger case mold complete

Available on the Downloads page

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

It is now practical to make true-round, perfect-fitting, all-in-one case molds for jiggering using a consumer 3D printer and PLA filament. This was a one-off test mold to demonstrate the method but these print so fast this is suitable to make dozens of molds. The process: Create the drawing in 3D CAD (e.g. Fusion 360), print the three sections, glue them, turn the assembly upside down, fill with plaster, let it set and peel out the inside two pieces using a heat gun.

Things to note:
-The outside diameter can be adjusted to fit the ring on any jigger machine or cuphead.
-This is very light and prints quickly, the walls are only 0.8mm thick.
-The shoulder (C) is printed solid and the PLA printed surface from A to D is left in place permanently, this enables precise and durable fit into the cuphead. I print the outside shell upside down, so no printed support is needed.
-The down-pointing flange (A) embeds it into the plaster providing a durable edge against which to fit the pour spout (F). The glue joint connecting A & B breaks when B & E are removed.
-B and E are printed upside down, no support is needed for B, since the top is open, it thus prints quickly.
-The base E has a flange that enables gluing it precisely into B. Debossed logos are practical. It prints upside down for maximum quality (print support is generated but because it is short it prints quickly).

You can get this on the downloads page.

CAD drawing for 3D-printing plaster mold natches, spacers, clips and embeds

Available on the Downloads page

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

Plastic natches are cast into plaster molds to provide a durable and good-fitting interlock between pieces. The traditional self-interlocking 3/8" or 9.5 mm (nipple diameter) one has not proven suitable for mold making based on 3D printing. Our solution is a four-part system.
-13.5mm holes in 3D printed case molds are all that is needed to adapt to these.
-3D printing case and block molds necessitates pouring plaster and rubber into shells with planar mating surfaces downward (they must sit flat on the table). The thin flanges on the clips cause minimal issues.
-Casting an embed into a mold enables gluing (or friction fitting) a natch or a spacer inside.
-The use of embeds permits flat mating surfaces, these can be sanded (for better flatness and fit). They also allow replacing natches if they get broken (assuming friction fit).
-A set of four interlocks (4 embeds, 4 clips, 2 spacers, 2 natches) weighs 8.7g.
Our drawing shows the measurements we use. 3D printing is precise enough that the inside dimension of the embed is the same as the outside of the natch shoulder, yet the natch fits. The same good fit happens with the clip and embed and the natch nipple and spacer (although it is necessary to chamfer the bottom corners and bevel the top corners of the spacer for better insert).
Some dimension changes may be needed to fine-tune for printing in your circumstances.

Coming soon: Throw the teapot and slip-cast the lid, handle, spout and lip

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

How would you like to be able to create a parametric CAD model of a teapot lid? Then 3D print a case mold and pour a multi-piece plaster working mold? Imagine easily making multiple-size one-off molds to accommodate any teapot you throw!

This is perfect for M370 or Polar Ice (both have throwing and casting versions). Or, how would you like to be able to formulate a casting slip having the same appearance and degree of maturity as the throwing body you use? More information coming soon (based on the L4807 casting body).

Next, imagine casting the handles, rims and spouts also. Information on how to draw and print them also coming soon.

Links

Typecodes	Fusion 360 Drawings These are available for download. Fusion 360 is our chosen 3D solid modelling software as of 2021. To produce these files we export them in F3D format.
Glossary	Mold Natches At digitalfire we are big fans of slip casting and want to help people and companies (even hobbyists) to integrate it into their production.

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