3D printed three-piece jigger case mold complete

Available as a Product on the Downloads page

It is now practical to make true-round, perfect-fitting, all-in-one case molds for jiggering using a consumer 3D printer and PLA filament. This was a one-off test mold to demonstrate the method but these print so fast this is suitable to make dozens of molds. The process: Create the drawing in 3D CAD (e.g. Fusion 360), print the three sections, glue them, turn the assembly upside down, fill with plaster, let it set and peel out the inside two pieces using a heat gun.

Things to note:
-The outside profile can be adjusted to fit your jigger machine or cuphead.
-This is light and prints quickly.
-The shoulder (C) is printed solid and the PLA printed surface from A to D is left in place permanently, this enables precise and durable fit into the cuphead. I print the outside shell upside down, so no printed support is needed.
-The down-pointing flange (A) embeds it into the plaster providing a durable edge against which to fit the pour spout (F). The glue joint connecting A & B breaks when B+E are removed.
-B and E are printed upside down, no support is needed for B (since the top is open).
-The base E has a flange that enables gluing it precisely into B. Debossed logos are practical on the base. It prints upside down for maximum quality.

You can get this on the downloads page.

Available as a Product on the Downloads page

Related Pictures

3D render for a jiggering template

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

I print these using PLA filament, they are strong enough for hobby or studio use (even if not printed solid). The knife-edge prints precise and smooth, there is no need for sanding. Notice that the drawing (far left) includes the contours of the inside and outside of the mug. Making the jigger template/knife only requires adding three straight lines. Then I extrude it forward 1cm and add a 30-degree draft. The top edge can, of course, be extended upward to mount in the jigger arm. The working template has to be narrower than this at the bottom to clear the edge when the jigger arm is lowered. For use in hand-finishing the slip cast mugs (without a jigger arm) it is suitable like this.

Jigger wheel auminum cuphead (for cups)

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

Showing dimensions to fit a Shimpo RK2 wheel, its shaft is 0.983 in diameter. The molds fit down inside as shown, only contacting the cuphead at the shoulder. This is machined from aluminum. We do not sell this of course, but you could take this drawing to a machine shop and have them make you one (the numbers are readable when this is zoomed to full size).

v2.0 3D-printed flanged rail to cast working plaster jigger molds

Available on the Downloads page

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

This enables casting a plaster mold that drops down in our aluminum jigger wheel cuphead. The critical measurement is the 73mm radius of the step where the mold sits inside the cuphead (this must be adjusted to your cuphead). To use, turn this upside down and center it over a plaster or 3D printed form of the inside shape of the vessel. The outfacing flanges enable this shell to open enough to release from the jigger mold being cast. Using paper clamps it is held together, and held down to, a clamping baseplate (having 86.2mm radius, it is a separate drawing). To assure that the mold seats well into the cuphead and rotates true, adjust the inner radius of the spacer ring and print it.

v1.0 3D-printed flanged rail to cast working plaster jigger molds

3D-printed flanged rail to cast plaster jigger molds

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.

The multi-use grey outer rail on the left was printed in two parts and glued together at the shoulder (to avoid the printing of support). The wall thickness is 1.6mm, actually too thick for fast printing. For v2.0 we went to 1.2mm and printed it upside down, in one piece, on a flange (this generated support but new printers to that so well that the step disconnects well and is not rough). The vertical split enables opening the shell a little after the plaster has set, quickly releasing it. The center model, of the inside contour of the mug, is integrated into a two-step base, it was made by casting the plaster inside another two-piece 3D-printed form. After removing that using a heat gun, I smoothed the plaster surface using a metal rib and trimming tool and then soaped it to ready for a pour. The mold shell is held securely in place by stretching a wide rubber band around the first step and clamping the shell into place around it. The assembly is then ready to be filled with plaster to make a jigger mold. Doing this on a turntable is also a good idea - it enables rotating it while filling and agitating after full to dislodge any air bubbles.

Videos

Links

Glossary	0.8mm thickness This is an ideal wall thickness to print on consumer 3D printer since to normally creates sufficient strength and prints in one two passes
Glossary	All-in-one case mold A method of 3D printing the case mold shell of an entire assembled plaster mold for using in ceramic production.
Glossary	3D-Printing Standard 3D printing technology (not printing with clay itself) is very useful to potters and ceramic industry in making objects that assist and enable production.
Projects	2019 Jiggering-Casting Project of Medalta 66 Mug My project to reproduce a mug made by Medalta Potteries more than 50 years ago. I cast the body and handle, jigger the rim and then attach the handle. 3D printing made this all possible.

Got a Question?

Buy me a coffee and we can talk