Glue-sticking the 3D printer bed for better adhesion

Many objects are unprintable due to plate adhesion issues. Some objects print successfully when done alone, but doing many of simultaneously can fail when one releases mid-print. In these cases, objects can be guaranteed to stick using a hot bed PVP glue stick like this one from Amazon (even a paper glue stick can be used, it sticks pieces even better but does not apply as evenly).
-When applied to a heated bed using long strokes it goes on evenly and dries hard.
-It can be washed off and replaced after several prints.
-The glued surface sticks pieces very well, this enables reducing the area of contact and lightening objects (giving success even when the slicer issues a "low bed adhesion" print stability warning. For example, these spacers and clips would normally release from an unglued plate.
-Objects having a large contact surface may not be removable without damaging them or the plate. Or, pliers may be needed to pull objects off (flat-bottomed pieces giving the most difficulty).
-The ten clips (right) are quite delicate, having 0.8mm walls and 0.4mm thickness base flanges. When adhesion is too great these can be damaged when removed with pliers, when not enough they release during printing. We adjust for this by increasing flange diameter when adhesion is too low and reducing it when it is too high.

Related Pictures

CAD drawing for 3D-printing plaster mold natches, spacers, clips and embeds

Available on the Downloads page

Plastic natches are cast into plaster molds to provide a durable and good-fitting interlock to ensure pieces line up perfectly. The traditional one familiar to most people is the 3/8" or 9.5 mm size (nipple diameter). Because of issues surrounding their use (not the least of which are price or even finding a supplier), we designed and print our own using PLA filament. Ours have several advantages:
-There is never an issue with supply, we make them.
-13.5mm holes in case molds are all that is needed to adapt to these.
-3D printing case and block molds necesititates pouring plaster and rubber into shells with planar mating surfaces downward (they must sit flat on the table). The thin flanges on these cause minimal issues.
-Casting an embed into a mold is more flexible since we can glue (or friction fit) a natch or a spacer inside. In addition, they permit flat mating surfaces to be sanded (for better flatness and fit).
Our drawing (right) shows the measurements we use. 3D printing is precise enough that the inside dimension of the embed is the same as the outside of the natch shoulder, yet the natch slides in perfectly. The same good fit happens with the clip and embed and the natch nipple and spacer (although it is necessary to chamfer the bottom corners and bevel the top corners of the spacer for better insert).
There is a good chance some dimension changes are needed to fine-tune for printing in your circumstances. Since these are printed in batches of many, failed print jobs will result if insufficient attention is given to this (and to whether to use a glued plate).

Links

Typecodes	3D printing problems 3D printing for mold making in ceramics requires determination and skill. And a memory for the many problematic techniques.

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