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In 4 minutes you will learn how to modify a copy of the existing drawing to print only a narrower part of the top 8cm
You can also watch this at Screencast-o-matic.com
Steps:
-Save the file under a temporary name.
-Push down the outer shell to get it out of the way.
-Edit the sketch and draw a 6x8cm box at the top, offset it twice outwards 0.8mm each.
-Draw another line across the bottom of the box 5mm up. Save the sketch.
-Go home, make the sketch visible.
-Select the inner shell and extrude it upwards 2cm (edit the extrude and set the operation at 'Join').
-Select the outer shell, set the operation at but and extrude it up and down (verify there is air space all around it).
-Using the 'Cut' operation to extrude the 5cm section upwards, fillet its bottom edges.
-Select it and 3D print it.
| Projects |
Beer Bottle Master Mold via 3D Printing
A project that took several years of failures and blind allies and is finally coming together - so much simpler than expected! |

This picture has its own page with more detail, click here to see it.
There is no substitute for firing tests pieces to cone 6 to test the fit for the swing assembly. In Fusion 360 I sliced off the top of the bottle and formed a small box around it to be able to quickly 3D print a test case mold of just the upper neck (I cast two plaster mold halves from them). In the freshly cast leather hard pieces, making a hole in the middle of the lug mounts was easy. Although the wire is 2.8mm dia, testing cycles indicated that an 11/64" (4.3mm) drill bit is required. Simply twisting it to create a hole in the center takes seconds. After two more iterations, I ended up with a pad size at 10x10mm and the flat pad surface at 18mm from center. Of course, your casting body may shrink more or less than mine, so be ready to adjust these values.
The link below links to a step-by-step in Fusion 360 of how to save a temporary copy of the mold drawing and modify it to isolate just the top portion of the neck.
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