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2019 Jiggering-Casting Project of Medalta 66 Mug
Beer Bottle Master Mold via 3D Printing
Build a kiln monitoring device
Coffee Mug Slip Casting Mold via 3D Printing
Comparing the Melt Fluidity of 16 Frits
Cookie Cutting clay with 3D printed cutters
Evaluating a clay's suitability for use in pottery
Make a mold for 4-gallon stackable calciners
Make Your Own Pyrometric Cones
Making a high quality ceramic tile
Making a jigger mold for producing cereal bowls
Making a Plaster Table
Making Bricks
Making our own kilns posts using a hand extruder
Making your own sieve shaker for slurries
Medalta Ball Pitcher Slip Casting Mold via 3D Printing
Medalta Jug Master Mold Development
Mother Nature's Porcelain - Plainsman 3B
Nursery Plant Pot
Pie-Crust Mug-Making Method
Plainsman 3D, Mother Nature's Porcelain/Stoneware

Roll, Cut, Pull, Attach Handle-making Method
Slurry Mixing and Dewatering Your Own Clay Body
Testing a New Load of EP Kaolin
Using milk as a glaze

Project to Document a Shimpo Jiggering Attachment

3D printing is bringing the ability to easily and inexpensively make molds for jiggering smaller ceramic pieces. This jiggering attachment is for a Shimpo potter's wheel, it is made from 1/2 inch flat steel and is very solid. I have used it for many years, it works well and can be adapted to other potters' wheels (this is a Shimpo RK2). The drawings are in Fusion 360 format in 3D, with all measurements. It is parametric (so you can change measurements and the drawing will adjust accordingly). That means you should be able to submit the file or drawing to any fabricator and have one made.

Related Information

Jigger arm assembly for a Shimpo RK2 pottery wheel


We have mechanical drawings for this (and the cup heads). This is very sturdy and useful. The arm is relatively short compared to industrial jigger wheels and is thus useful for only small shapes. There is an advantage: The template contacts vertical walls at a more perpendicular angle. But the disadvantage is that the trailing edge of the template hits the outside edge of the lip on taller shapes. The pointed bolts hold the arm securely and their tightness enables varying the friction of movement. They have enough length to also position the arm horizontally. We 3D print templates and block masters for making working molds that drop into the cuphead.

My potter's wheel with aluminum cup-head and jigger mold inserted


The cup-head was lathed from a block of aluminum and it attaches to the shaft the same as a regular wheel-head. Plaster molds simply drop in and sit on their shoulder. The shoulder is the only point-of-contact, this prevents chattering while the mold spins when under pressure. I am using these molds for a casting-jiggering process (or just casting). For example, I can cast a mug in the mold, then pour out the slip, wait a few minutes and then, as the wheel spins, finish the rim and inside sure using a 3D-printed template/rib. I do not actually use the jigger arm, it is easier just to hold the template in hand. I can finish the rims on any round pieces made in these molds.

Jigger arm from both sides


The arm is heavy, made from 1/2 inch plate steel. The counterweight at the end have 1 in plate weights. The swivel mounts are machined to fit the custom cone-ended bolts.

Shimpo Jigger attachment drawing


Jigger arm assembly

Made from 1/2" x 3" flat steel, this frame is heavy and very strong and solid. The two larger 3.5" long bolts are custom-made from 5/8in-11 threaded rod, they have a 45-degree cone tip and locking nuts. The small vertical stopper-bolt is made from 3/8" rod. It is 2" long with 1" dia washer welded on top and a locking nut. The small bolt setting determines the bottom point of arm travel. The pivot sockets on the jigger arm are 1" long and made from 1" steel rod, each has the 45-degree recess machined into it. The arm can be moved left or right and its tension set by adjusting the two larger bolts. The weighted collar on the back of the arm employs two pieces of 1" thick flat steel, it is heavy (important for convenience-of-operation). The triangular notch enables the arm to be lifted higher. The weight colar needs some sort of set screw to hold it in place. A number of corners need to be rounded or rubber-padded for safety reasons. If you would like this 3D file in Fusion 360 and STEP formats, it is available in the Files manager in your Insight-live.com account.

Cuphead for Shimpo jigger wheel


This is machined out of aluminum. We also have drawings of a 3D-printable shell-mold for making molds that drop into this. And methodology for printing the outside contour of pieces to be jiggered.

Jigger wheel auminum cuphead (for cups)


Showing dimensions to fit a Shimpo RK2 wheel, its shaft is 0.983 in diameter. The molds fit down inside as shown, only contacting the cuphead at the shoulder. This is machined from aluminum. We do not sell this of course, but you could take this drawing to a machine shop and have them make you one (the numbers are readable when this is zoomed to full size).

Jigger wheel aluminum cuphead (for plates)


The head is lathed from aluminum. It fits on a potter's wheel (adjust the inside diameter to fit the shaft). The plaster mold drops into it this cuphead and stays in place by friction. The only point of contact between the mold and aluminum should be at the top inside corner of the cuphead.

3D print this rail to pour plaster jigger molds for mugs


Jigger master for mugs

Turn this upside down and center it over a precision plaster or 3D printed form of the outside shape of a mug. This creates a mold that drops down in our Shimpo cuphead. This opens slightly along one side for easy release from the plaster after set. It is held together by paper clamps during use. The upper flange can be glued down to a smooth surface with a clay slurry. If you would like this 3D file in Fusion 360 format, it is available in the Files manager in your Insight-live.com account.

Links

Projects 2019 Jiggering-Casting Project of Medalta 66 Mug
Glossary Jiggering
Jiggering is a process of forming pottery that employs a spinning plaster mold and a tapered template to press soft clay or porcelain against it.
By Tony Hansen
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