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. Crazing is a universal problem in ceramics and pottery. There are a lot of band-aid solutions out there but the only way you will ever really deal with it is by understanding the simple cause. It is true, there is no universal solution. Nevertheless, in the majority of situations the problem can be completely solved by adjusting the chemistry of the glaze to reduce its thermal expansion without affecting other fired properties. Let's enumerate some of the changes you can make to a recipe to dealing with crazing. As I do so, remember that a glaze that displays crazing needs major change, not fine tuning. Just because you don't see crazing out of the kiln does not mean that ware is not poised to do so at the first thermal test, or after some time.

Material Level Changes

Oxide Level Changes

For these solutions chemistry is needed to juggle the amounts of materials to achieve the desired oxide change.

Although many of the above strategies do not have a large reducing effect on glaze expansion, in combination it is true that they can add up. I have found that crazing glazes invariably have other deficiencies (e.g. too glossy, too matte, tendency to pinhole or blister, crystallize, cloud up, settle in the bucket, knife mark, dissolve in acids, etc). It is thus best to pick a strategy that reduces crazing and at the same time addresses other problems. For example if the glaze is melting very well and is glossy then it likely will tolerate more silica. Likewise, if the glaze is melting well but is too glossy, you can add alumina, it will at least help reduce expansion and gloss plus increase hardness. If a glaze is not melting quite well enough then the addition of boron will reduce expansion and melting temperature. If a glaze is settling in the bucket and melts well, it will likely tolerate both alumina and silica additions, that means you can increase kaolin that glaze glaze will suspend better. All of these will help, but I repeat that a crazing glaze needs major work, even a combination of these will likely be enough to fix the problem.

Na2O, K2O Must Go

All the crazing glazes I can remember had one thing in common: high sodium and potassium (from feldspar, nepheline syenite or frits). When you consider increasing sodium and potassium has up to 10 times the effect on expansion as does reducing silica, it only makes sense that replacing part of their content with a flux of the lowest possible expansion will have the maximum effect. Substituting MgO for KNaO imparts the maximum effect. However you could also substitute KNaO for a mixture of CaO, ZnO, Li2O, SrO also.

There are some possible problem with increasing MgO in glaze recipes. First, MgO can contribute a different color response for some metal oxides. However I have not found this to be a big concern in most cases (except for the important exception of Chrome Tin pink colors, they do not like MgO). As noted, the main raw sources of MgO, talc and dolomite are viable in high fire glazes, but they do not melt to release their oxides at lower temperatures (in addition both are rather gaseous and can contribute to glaze imperfections at lower temperatures). Frits like Fusion F69 or Ferro 3249 are the perfect solution for middle temperatures like cone 6. They release no gases and melt well. If your glaze already contains a material contributing boron (and almost all middle fire glazes do) these frit are ideal candidates to help you reduce thermal expansion dramatically.

Consider glaze G1214W Cone 6 transparent:

1214W 1215U
Wollastonite 10.0 14.5
EPK  25.0 14.0
Frit 3134  25.0
Silica  25.0 26.0
Kona F-4 Feldspar  15.0 24.0
Frit 3249 20.0
Zinc Oxide 2.0

This glaze is an adjustment to improve the earlier 20x5 recipe G1214M. However this glaze does tend to craze on clay bodies having a lower quartz content. In addition, its CaO content is lower and it does not work well with Chrome-Tin colors. I have attempted various strategies to reduce its thermal expansion and they have met with limited success. The best so far involves sourcing Li2O from spodumene to replace some of the Na2O/K2O. However the glaze slurry is not as nice to use (it foams and bubbles).

However using this frit I was able to use less total frit content, I had more flexibility to adjust the chemistry (I was able to eliminate the feldspar completely to produce a high calcia glaze), and I was able to retain the feldspar (the Frit 3134 contributed considerable Na2O and that was removed by eliminating it). The new glaze has a very similar chemistry:

remember effect of dif clay bodies
It is possible that you need to move still further to stop crazing on your clay body, especially if it is very low in silica. We suggest increasing B2O3 slightly and then increasing Al2O3. Or you may simply be able to add silica. In serious cases of crazing the magic oxide is MgO, increasing at at the expense of K2O and Na2O will dramatically reduce the expansion. MgO does not melt as well at middle temperature but we have found the diversifying the fluxes and increasing the boron a little will make room for as much MgO as you need. Here is our G1215M recipe. Although it looks very different, the chemistry is very similar. The small amount of zinc should not be a problem for most, but if it is you can leave it out and see if it still melts enough, if not add a little more frit.

Silica                 35.0
Strontium Carbonate     2.0
Zinc Oxide              2.0
Spodumene              10.0
Dolomite               11.0
Frit 3195              30.0
EPK                    15.0